![]() ![]() Design rooms are extremely costly to maintain and have been downsized due to the fact that most manufacturing is now done offshore. "First samples" were produced in the design room and later shown in a fashion show or in the company showroom. ![]() With a staff of assistant designers, sketchers, patternmakers, drapers, finishers, and sample makers, American designers worked in their design rooms to create a collection each season. Bill Blass was one of many designers who used trunk shows to gain customers, profits, and a growing reputation.įrom the 1950s through the 1980s, the design room in the United States became the equivalent of the European atelier. This simple and inexpensive marketing technique allowed customers to preview and respond to the designer's new collection, and to buy clothes. ![]() Through sales events known as "trunk shows," designers traveled to stores with their latest collection in a trunk. Customer demographics influenced designers to create fashions targeted to specific customer profiles. Increasingly, especially in the United States, fashion designers worked closely with store buyers to identify customers' preferences and lifestyle needs. In the postwar economy, as fashion became big business, the role of the designer changed. Other American designers such as Hattie Carnegie, Vera Maxwell, Bonnie Cashin, Anne Klein, and Tina Leser had flourishing careers they helped shape the development of sportswear that reflected the casual American lifestyle. Claire McCardell, known as the creator of the "American Look," drew some of her inspiration from the vernacular clothing of industrial and rural workers as inspiration. As a result, American designers began to receive more serious recognition. But the position of Paris as the undisputed leader of fashion was disrupted by World War II.ĭuring that war, with Paris occupied by the Nazis, American designers and manufacturers were cut off from the fashion leadership of Paris. Paris was the center of international fashion for more than one hundred years, with French couturiers setting the trends for Europe and the Western world. Along with Worth, the Callot sisters, Jeanne Paquin, Jacques Doucet, and Jeanne Lanvin are considered to be among the first modern fashion designers, as compared with the dressmakers of earlier generations. An Englishman, he opened his couture house in Paris in 1846. Charles Frederick Worth is considered the father of haute couture. ![]()
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